Saturday, April 18, 2009

Hey Mona Lisa, can I get a date on Friday? And if you're busy, I wouldn't mind taking Saturday-ay-ay

Just to prepare any and all of those of you who read these posts, this will be part 1 in a series of 3 to fill you in on my spring break. Listos? Preparados? YA!

On April 1, I set out on a 10 day adventure, which I was certain would be the biggest and best spring break -- the spring break to end all spring breaks if you will -- thus my traveling partner Haley and I deemed the trip "Armageddon." Spoiler alert: the trip totally lived up to that name. 

Wednesday morning, I woke up at 6:30 to catch the bus here in Sevilla to the train station. For some weird reason, the only train I could get was headed to Madrid an hour before Haley's... so it was slightly awkward timing wise, but it worked out great. The Ave (fast train line in Spain) took 2.5 hours to reach Madrid from Sevilla and it was such a very pleasant ride. The cars were really new and fresh, and the seats were ultra roomy, and although my train left from platform 7, I got to pretend it was platform 9-3/4 and that I was hopping on the Hogwarts Express for another semester at England's finest institution for witchcraft and wizardry. Ahhhh :) I got into Madrid around noon and waited for Haley until around 1:15, at which point we took the metro into the city; we had a few hours to kill until we had to make tracks to the airport, so we hopped off at a random metro stop and wandered around the city until we found this random park/driving range that was super inviting. We sat down and ate the bocadillos that our host mothers had made for us and just chit chatted for about an hour, then we found this wonderful bench in the shade and took a nap in the park like hobos for about 2 hours. A very relaxing way to start the trip. 

We took the metro to the airport, which was very efficient because it takes you right into the terminal. We made our first attempt to check in, but failed miserably because our low-cost airline of choice, EasyJet, tried to make Haley check her bag because it wouldn't fit in the absolutely microscopic bin they had designated as the cut off for carry-on baggage. It was supposed to cost 20 euro, so we had a mini confrontation with the woman, hopped out of line and then proceeded to unpack and repack both of our bags for the first time in what would be a series of 4 by the time we physically got on the plane. It was the most ridiculous thing in the world, and I was so frustrated about it that I was literally sweating and red in the face -- I thought I was going to have to straight up pop someone in the face because when I got on the plane, I was able to fit my bag and another in the overhead compartment. Yes, TWO bags. That should be a lesson from the get go for anyone who thinks they're getting away with a great deal on low-cost airlines... they will nickel and dime you, and harass you at the airport, so be prepared. 

But alas, we reached Paris safe and sound, all baggage in tow. And we even got stamps in our passports - hazaah! We were to stay with a friend of Haley's from college, so we hopped on the RER (a more extensive line of the metro running to al outer zones of the city) to a stop relatively close to the apartment, then we caught a tram to her block. We got off and had to keep walking until we found her house number, then call her on a payphone to let us into the building. It was quite the process, but we were glad to make it in one piece and to have a place to sleep - for free! 

The next morning we went to the grocery - one of my absolute favorite things to do in foreign countries for some reason. I just love the grocery! We bought cereal, juice, pretzels and other superfluous items to pack a lunch for our day excursion to VERSAILLES! Versailles is one of those places I've dreamt of going to since I read about it in like the seventh grade... two weeks after the fact, I still cannot believe I did it.  We took the RER again to Versailles, a city actually just outside of Paris. We were supposed to pay an extra fee for the zone change, but we saw other people hopping the metro gate, so we decided to balls up and do the same. $Free.99 never felt so good. We stopped into a little cafe for a coffee and a coke, a little pick me up if you will... and it was so funny when we asked for the bill because the bartender said some random number in French, and seeing as how neither Haley nor myself speak French we just stared at him. Then he ever so nicely reached around to a coaster and wrote the number, then we all proceeded to laugh out loud at how silly it was. This was the start of a very friendly line of French people we encountered throughout our stay in Paris - in fact, I will just go ahead and get this out of the way: whatever rumors you have heard or stereotypes you might have in your mind about how unfriendly, arrogant and pretentious the French are, just replace the French with every average Spaniard and you'll be more on the right track. En serio - the French were so kind to us, it was a really refreshing change of pace from being in Spain and I soaked up every minute of it. 

So - back to Versailles. *Sigh* for Versailles. We rounded the corner of the avenue leading up to the Chateau, and I swear when I caught my first glimpse of it all I heard the sweet harmonies of a chorus of angels singing.


The front gates are made completely of gold, and they are immaculately polished and shiiiiiiiny. The front courtyard was impressive - it was like the greeting you get from a party host... warm and intimate, like a personal invitation to come inside and make yourself at home. We spent the big bucks on our admission tickets so we could see everything - and I didn't even care because I was so excited. The first stop was an exhibit in the Chateau about the history of the court: mainly portraitures of the famous Louis XIV and his counterparts that made Versailles their home. The second part was an exhibit about fashion at the French court - and it was so awesome! They had Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette's coronation outfits on display, in addition to several other pieces indicative of everyday style in that time. It was really amazing to see how small-framed people were back then, both how thin and how short they were. And the way they fashioned women's apparel was sooooo funny - they put petticoats and metal or wooden frames under their dresses to create the weirdest profiles, HUGE, over-exaggerated hips and tiny tiny tiny waistlines. It was beautiful though. 


Next we got to walk through some of the Palace rooms: chapels, dining halls, drawing rooms, offices, receiving rooms, throne rooms, bed chambers. Everything was so ornate and detailed. Such brilliant color schemes and vivid decor on every surface.

We got to go through the Hall of Mirrors, the central gallery in the palace and probably one of the most famous rooms in the entire world. Every inch of the room was covered in gilded mirrors, flanked with windows that reached from floor to ceiling; crystal chandeliers hung from the center walkway and reflected the sunlight right onto the mirrors which in turn set light dancing into every corner of space in the room. Amazing. Just amazing. 




We had a picnic lunch in the main garden/courtyard and just people watched for a while, then we decided to take a mini train out to Marie Antoinette's estate - Le Petit Trianon. It was basically this mansion on the northwestern part of the estate that Louis XVI gave to Marie Antoinette to escape from the life at court which she so hated. We also got to visit her private hamlet and gardens, which was probably my favorite part of the entire trip to Paris. It was so green, so tranquil and genuinely felt like it was a little piece of heaven here on earth. Her palace was gorgeous - nowhere near as overdone as the main Chateau, but still so beautiful and rich.





We walked through the little paths that carved their way all through the estate; we visited the Temple of Love, the little animal farm, the grotto, the lake houses and the vineyard. The daffodils were blooming all over the place - greeting us with only the friendliest disposition like all daffodils do. I could have stayed there forever.   


That night we stayed in the apartment and made cheese ravioli with tomato sauce... washed it down with a decent bottle of riesling and turned in pretty early. The next morning we got up and about, packed out things and moved ourselves to another friend of Haley's, Andrew. He's been living in Paris for 3 years studying film at an international university in the city. When we got there and dropped off our things, we headed right out to do some sight seeing. It felt like we were in a completely different city than before... Andrew's apartment was right in the heart of Paris, only about a ten minute walk from Notre Dame. That was our first stop of the day, and it was beautiful.

Even though I thought I was pretty churched-out from all the cathedrals I've seen on my Spanish adventures, I was still amazed at the beauty of it all. My amazement will never cease at beautiful and painfully meaningful things people have created for God. It restores my faith a little more and more every time. 

After that we walked around that district in search of a market to buy some meat and cheese for a picnic lunch... it took us about a half hour, but we finally found this small grocery where we bought some brie and salami. We bought a baguette at a bakery and then hopped on the metro to go to - drum roll please - La Tour Eiffel!

When we got off the metro, we couldn't see the tower and had no idea which way to go, but we got pointed in the right direction and when we turned the corner into the park and I saw the tower for the first time, my mouth literally dropped open. It was so big! I mean tremendous! I had no idea how big it was going to be, but my breath was just taken away at the monumental-ness of it all. (By the way - that's what she said...) We walked under the tower to get to the grass knoll on the other side, and I just kept looking up to take it all in... I'm pretty I experienced a little bit of vertigo or something. We found a cozy spot and sat down to have our oh-so-French lunch. Haley's friend Kira met us there and we just sat around in the sunshine for a while, then tried to take some funny pictures with the tower. We grabbed a fresh crepe with nutella and banana, a few diet cokes, then set out for a walk through the city. 


We wound up at the Arc de Triopmhe - which was crazy big! The roundabout of traffic circling it had to be at least 8 lanes wide, and you can't access the arch from the sidewalk,  you have to go through an underground tunnel to come up right in the middle. We admired it from a distance, but I still thought it was amazing.

I had to pee like crazy, so we randomly stopped into a cafe and I discreetly snuck into the restroom than walked out with Kira - but right before we got to the door, the bartender stopped her and yelled at her. Apparently the bar wasn't open for people to just use the restroom, so I had to come back in and buy something to pay for using the restroom. She came out laughing and told me what he said... and although he was really serious, I was like, really? We thought about making a run for it, but Haley needed a pick me up anyways so she bought a coffee. It was real stupid of him to be such a douche, in hindsight. 
After we finished paying or dues there, we walked down the Champs Elysees (the most famous street in Paris - lots of cafes and super expensive stores) and enjoyed people watching. 

We took the Metro back  to Andrew's and had crepes for dinner. Afterwards, Kira, Haley and I went to Pont Neuf - which is the oldest standing bridge over the Seine in Paris... more importantly though, it's the bridge from Sex and the City when Carrie makes her sojourn to Paris. DEEEEE!

On Friday nights people go there to drink wine and just hang out. It was fun to do something other than tourist stuff, and I was thankful to have Kira there. We didn't stay out as long as we could have, because the wind next to the river was cutting through my fleece like a cold knife. Kira took us to the Louvre to see the pyramid at night before we hopped on the metro and went home. 


The next morning we woke up early to go to the Louvre for real. Surprisingly enough, we didn't have to wait at all in line. We got our tickets and a map and designated two hours of the day to tour the facility. What a joke. I had no idea how large and in charge the Louvre was in actuality. There's nothing to compare it to- nothing. Haley said she once read that if a person were to look at every piece of art in the collection for about 5 minutes, it would take them more than 30 whole days to see everything. I was truly overwhelmed looking at the map - I didn't know where to start. I really wanted to see some of the ancient art - especially the Mesopotamian reliefs.

And or course we went through the Renaissance section... I turned the corner into that wing and Rachael, all I could think of was the Lingo and I screamed CIMABUE!
I was looking for a Giot-to, but alas, he wasn't there. I hung out with Mona and Madonna for a while then moved onto the large-scale French pieces, mostly from the neoclassic and romantic periods, but so worth it. I was SO PROUD of myself for recognizing works and styles and recalling facts like I did. I don't often get to apply anything I've learned in my art classes, but I felt vindicated for about an hour that day... even though I think I bored Haley to death with the random things I was saying. Mrs. Lash, you would have been proud, too.


Afterwards, we stopped and had lunch at a gyro stand and then headed to the Cemetery Pere Lachaise... the biggest and best in Paris. For some odd reason, I love cemeteries. They are so relaxing... maybe because everyone there is dead and doesn't bother you. It's just such a tranquil environment, and there's always the most beautiful, enveloping trees to shade you and keep you company on a low-key day. Pere Lachaise is HUGE, like everything else in Paris. Instead of your typical gravestones though, most of the graves are mausoleums, or basically small scale houses! There's ivy crawling all over the unique and beautiful headstones and mausoleum doors and as far as you can see.
Basically famous French artist of the modern era is buried here, as well as playwrights, poets, politicians, etc. The most two graves are Jim Morrison from the Doors and the author Oscar Wilde;
We took a long walk through the grounds but made sure to stop at both of those sites. 

Last stop of the day was Montmarte - the highest point in Paris which provides a panoramic view of the city. It's something like 400 feet above the city and is famous for the basilica Sacre Coeur.


I was exhausted at this point in time - being on my feet walking through the museum and then the cemetery wore me out enough, but we had to climb some 200 steps (literally) to get out of the metro, and then at least another 200 to get to the top of the hill. I thought my knee was going to implode. The things we do for Paris. 

That night we went back to Andrew's and packed up all of our junk so we could make a quick and clean exit the next morning to catch the bus to Brussels. We had a tasty meal of chicken shawarma and ice cream, then watched a string of hilarious youtube videos with Andrew and his friend Jean-Louise. It was so low-key and so pleasant... a perfect way to end the first leg of the trip. 

1 comment:

  1. Sounds awesome! Makes me miss France...you didn't go to Moulin Rouge? It was so cool seeing the big windmill and everything. Except the prostitutes trying to sell us condoms was pretty annoying.

    I was a little disappointed when I saw the Mona Lisa. I think it's cause she was so tiny. I guess I just expected her to be bigger.

    Nutella and banana crepes were my favorite meal in France!

    ReplyDelete

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Sevilla, AndalucĂ­a, Spain
Once I read a story about a butterfly in the subway, and today, I saw one! It got on at 42nd and off at 59th, where, I assume, it was going to Bloomingdales to buy a hat that will turn out to be a mistake, as almost all hats are.